What is the RIGHT speed to ride?

The speed we ride at is extremely important. Sometimes a very slow speed is exactly what is needed to develop a feel or learn to sit the trot. Sometimes it’s effective at bringing the back up. Riders love to go slow! It feels safe and in control! However, often the speed the rider wants to use is a bit too slow for the horse to develop properly.

Here’s an example to perhaps help you understand: The water skier has to go exactly the right speed in order to stay on top of the water. Wider, longer skis can handle a slower speed, much like a stronger, more powerfully and naturally engaged horse can more readily collect (go slower). The skis plane out — or you can say the horse planes out (that is, keeps his back up and hind legs engaged) with less speed because of the skis and the horse’s inherent qualities.

Now the narrow skis or the slalom skis, the barefoot skier, etc. and the hollow backed horse with his hind legs carried out behind his tail, are different. For sure the skier needs more speed in order to stay balanced and on top of the water. Very often it helps the horse as well to keep the back up and hind legs reaching.

It feels like you are on top of a rounded suspension bridge when you get it right. When you use the half halt, it feels better, not like a pulling match, or an empty sponge. After the half halt the horse’s quality of his gait improves. How often do we see this in reality? Rarely, because there are so many things that have to be right to make it work. It’s just difficult! I guess that’s what keeps us trying. It’s a great challenge.
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Since many would argue that you can’t do a proper half halt at training and possibly even first level because the horse isn’t strong enough to rebalance themselves on to their hind end so they can maintain a bridge-like back and also slow down, when the judge says “needs half halts,” the rider again concludes, “I have to slow down.” It’s my belief that at training and first level we sometimes need to go a bit quick until the horse gets stronger. They will never get stronger by going slowly to begin with. At second level and above come the proofs. If the horse stepped under and created a fine back for the rider to sit on, second level won’t be a struggle.

I can’t imagine how dressage could be done without a half halt, it’s that important. But we get very different results when we half halt a great horse versus a poor one, or an advanced horse, versus a beginner horse. If the half halt is, like it says in the rules, “a collecting exercise,” how can we do that with slow hind legs? How can we do that when a horse has no collection yet? So, we use full halts and other transitions, and gradually we make some progress in shifting our horse’s balance, but not if we let the horse dribble from gait to gait and not be prompt and yes, quick with the hind legs!

And I hope students, judges and trainers ride and teach every day with an effort to keep learning because this is a very complex and fascinating sport.

The Case of the Missing Motor

At a recent dressage clinic, the highly regarded presenter/judge/clinician, said, “I didn’t even notice” that the 1st level horse wasn’t coming close to tracking up in its working trot. I marveled at this, since when I went through the “r” program many many years ago, we were told a horse could never score well that couldn’t track up. This horse in the clinic had been give many 7s by this judge (since it was a New Test clinic) and an 8 on the trot lengthening in which the horse just barely tracked up, though it had a bit of front end enthusiasm. Further pressed, the clinician said, “they can always be more forward,” implying that this was totally correct work for this level.

During the discussion, we were also told that the reason the coefficient of 2 on the “gaits” collective had been removed was because we didn’t want to reward the fancy horse so much.

Now, in my experience, it’s only the fanciest horses that can pull off a decent dressage test if they aren’t forward, I mean, really nicely on the aids. So, by not focusing on this we are in effect, really discriminating against the mediocre horse, because with a missing motor, he is nothing. With impulsion and thoroughness you can make quite a nice horse out of a pretty poor mover, but now he’ll never amount to a hill of beans.

Further, the encouragement to “slow down” in the first level trot lengthening encourages bad riding, as the trainers now seek to help their students achieve a level of suspension and front end action that does not include hind end push. In my experience, letting the first level horse get a bit quick is fine as long as the stride lengthens, because then the trot keeps its ground-covering quality. With practice, the horses eventually will shift into a lengthening that offers all the qualities desired by the second level mediums, but for first level, my vote is keep the motor! Don’t slow it down!

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We’ve eliminated the stretching canter at second level, because everyone did it so badly – yes, but what a great education we got trying to learn to do it! We now straighten the haunches to the track out of the haunches in – what’s up with that? We always learned to straighten over the hindquarters! Further, I was told that engagement didn’t really matter in a walk pirouette. What? Isn’t that one of our preparatory collecting movements for the piaffe?

Over the years we’ve eliminated the mandatory score of 4 for a horse that steps back at x because why? Everybody does it – especially the highest level horses. In my opinion, this 4 should stand as the score for this error; the horse that does it, is not thinking forward.

Well, enough of my ranting, just depressing me how my discipline is now only about great horses and politics, witness the 3 scores on the rider. What is the judge going to do there? Reward her buddies. Yuck.

Become a Better Rider

Learning to ride is like most other endeavors. Everyone follows some basic paths in learning. First we understand it, then we master a portion of it and that part we do easily and automatically. Finally we master so much of it that we do it on autopilot. So, what separates the really good or professional riders/musicians/athletes, etc., from the amateurs? Well, amateur musicians, for example, tend to spend their practice time playing music, whereas pros tend to work through tedious exercises or focus on difficult parts of pieces. Similarly, the best ice skaters spend more of their practice time trying jumps that they land less often, while lesser skaters work more on jumps they’ve already mastered. In other words, regular practice simply isn’t enough.

To improve, we have to be constantly pushing ourselves beyond where we think our limits lie and then pay attention to how and why we fail…

Riding takes persistent, perfect practice to make you a perfect rider and your horse a perfect horse. Here are a few specific tips:

1. Read everything

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3. Don’t expect improvement in every single ride. If you are on an uphill trend, be happy.

4. Watch your teacher ride. If you can’t imagine what you are trying to do, it’s hard to do it!

5. Visualize what you want your horse to do. Again, you have to have a great deal of understanding for this to be an effective technique.

One Way that Riding is Like Ballet

Riding is like ballet in many ways, but I especially like to relate it to the use of the rider’s hands. Here’s how: In ballet, there are different positions you learn as you progress through the levels. I took so little ballet, I know very little! But one thing I do remember is that there is first postion, second position, etc. Now, in ballet, you learn these positions as progressive steps in your dance education. In riding, it’s similar. For example, when riding, I like to have people keep their hands on the neck, or on the front of the saddle and keep them there most of the time. This is critical for beginners to establish their seat and for advanced riders to gain discipline to not use their hands for everything. This is a position where they can be in balance, and also a place to anchor, rest, or press them. It may be the neck or the front of the saddle, or the saddle pad, but you velcro your gently bent knuckles there (keeping wrists straight).

Like ballet, I teach this as a “position.” Let’s call this basic hands-on-neck position #1. I like to encourage riders to work to gain the ability (in both horse and rider) to be in this position maybe 95% of the time.

Now, say your horse is resistant and you’re wanting to bend her a bit, and so you use your legs and core muscles as you learn in your lessons, but she’s not bending. So you may also need a little rein. Now, you may have to go to position 2. Say position 2 is one hand slightly off the neck (inside hand). Following your correction, you go back to position 1 every time. This is neutral. This is “you’re a good horse, stay here, have confidence that I won’t yank on you.”

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The next position is position 4. Now both hands are wide. This is so you don’t inadvertently let the horse be lazy with the inside hind leg. Keeping your inside hand on the neck while you take the outside hand out, away from the neck to move the horse out on the circle does not help the action of the inside hind. So, when possible, I like to try to keep both hands off the neck and then get the horse off my inside leg. This way I am more likely to get true engagement out of the discussion!

The bottom line is: after any rein aid, put your hands back on the neck on position 1 — and never use rein without leg. Sometimes you may have to slide your hands, that are in position 1, back a little to take up slack that your horse has made in the reins by hollowing out (putting up her head). Always use your leg to push your horse back into the contact. A bending aid is also helpful. Think push hands into neck. Think push horse forward.

Jumping Tips

When your horse is launching herself over the jumps and you feel you are always getting left behind and your instructor keeps yelling at you to fix this and tighten your leg and grab mane and nothing is working, consider changing your horse! Don’t go buy a new one, because you’ll just give it the same problems, fix this one! Most often when students are having difficulties with jumping or flatwork and I find myself saying, “sit still,” “Don’t wave with the walk,” etc., or the comments above on the jumping, the horse tells me the real story when I get on him: the horse’s hind end is so far out behind him and he is so butt high there is no way he can do it right. So, the student can’t fix her position until we fix the horse. Try the following with very low jumps.

Try using a fast trot with leg yielding nose to the wall so the horse get the hind legs moving much faster and more under his body.

Try going in a slight leg yield as you approach the fence (of course, figure out how to do this and still steer the horse safely over the fence.)

Try riding in sitting trot over cavalleti and over the jumps.

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Try heels more down – you may be gripping with your knees, which is often fixed by a really deep heel. (Other problems in the leg can occur then, however, so experiment).

Do a lot of halts and rein backs and/or turns on the forehand.

Make any grids you set up low and short. Don’t hesitate to us a 7 or 8 foot stride for low fences and smaller horses for bounces. Longer reaches make horses drop they backs and hollow out.

Snow Riding

What fun! Turns out we are lucky with the snowy footing this year. So often it freezes and ices up underneath, but this year it’s great for riding and conditioning. It’s an exercise similar to working your horse over cavalletti, but you don’t have to set up or take down, it’s just there! The horses love the break from the tedium of indoor riding and are more willing to go forward. ED History and order generic cialis Health The doctor shall ask you questions regarding your symptoms and entire medical history. You should both be http://amerikabulteni.com/2012/02/04/new-yorkta-super-bowl-finalini-seyredebileceginiz-en-iyi-10-bar/ viagra price happy in order to feel a sense of intimacy between the two of you. However, problem in relationship occurs when you are using Kamagra Australia you will be able to get erection in a normal way but the erection problem lowest cost of viagra occurs when not enough blood is reached to the penile organs. These kinds of issues can happen at levitra pill price any time, to any man mainly because of fatigue, stress, relationship issues, and mental depression. This can be used to your advantage, of course, as you help them find their way through the snow-covered pastures (only going on areas where you know the footing was good in the summer), lifting their legs high to clear this deep snow, and working their shoulders and bellys and rear ends. Thank you Mother Nature!

Going Forward

What does it mean to “go forward” when riding? This is probably the most difficult concept for any student, as demonstrated in lackluster performances due to weak impulsion as we struggle to evolve our skills and develop our horse’s throughness.

It requires a great deal of self-motivation for a horse to really be “through.” Thus, in it’s definition, throughness “means the supple, elastic, unblocked, connected state of the horse’s musculature and a willing mental state that permits an unrestricted flow of energy from back to front and front to back (circle of the aids). . . ” It is also characterized by “lively impulsion . . .” (See the 2010 USDF Directory).

What I’ve noticed as a trainer for something like 35 years, is that I keep rediscovering the importance of impulsion — the forward urge of the horse — to it’s ability to do everything!

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The two things that help the most in developing the walk are BENDING — importantly, with the inside hand clearly off the neck so it’s an opening, not a direct rein, and LAYING THE WHIP, or tapping on the inside of the horse (made easier to do wtih the opening inside rein), so the horse activiates at least that one hind leg. The other hind leg will come along for the ride, once you get the inside one.

The aids described above can be used at the free walk, medium walk, and in fact, in any gait. Forcing yourself not to use an indirect, or even a direct rein with your inside rein helps tremendously in the throughness/impulsion department, and insisting that the horse be active and quick with the hind legs through use of your whip gets the horse to perform in an “unrestricted” way.

What Kind of “Partner” is Your Horse?

“Partner.” The word evokes different mental images for each of us, based on our life’s experiences. The dictionary talks about partners in terms of dance, business, tennis and marriage/close relationships. The specifics of a partnership can vary tremendously depending on needs of the partnership as well as roles of the partners. For example, one partner in the law firm may do marriage and family practice, and one may to personal injury. One partner in the marriage may do all of the cooking and one do all of the mowing. Division of labor is common in partnerships.

In dance, one person leads and the other follows. This is the type of partnership most like that between rider and horse; one leads and the other follows. This is the division of labor that has to exist in order for success to ensue.

Many riders think of partnership as equal voice/opinion of horse and rider. Whoa! No way! The rider has to clearly be in charge and leading, or the team will fail.

Compare to a boxer and a trainer. That’s a partnership similar to a horse a rider in that one person (the trainer) knows what’s best for the other (boxer) and pushes the boxer out of his comfort zone to work hard toward success. Now, the main difference between this partnership and the rider and horse is that the boxer is motivated. The horse is not.

No matter how many people make statements about their horse such as, “He knows it’s a big show and does his best,” I am a firm believer that horses (for the most part – there may be exceptions I haven’t met yet!) are not intrinsically motivated to round up, extend, collect, do tempi changes and in general, work.

So, if they aren’t motivated, how do we get them to do what we want? And, if they don’t want to do it, what then?
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First, motivation: develop your skills so you can communicate clearly, and then convince your horse to do what you ask, the first time you ask. Much easier said than done, but that’s the journey.

Second: Make sure your horse is his best through massage, chiropractic, joint injections, or whatever you need/want to do. A hurting horse is a lousy dance partner.

Third: Get in shape. Do your part to make it easier for your horse to work with you.

Fourth: Be clear, insistent and consistent. If you say it must be this way, that’s the way it must be. Rules are not negotiated in this partnership, or you won’t succeed in developing your horse to his fullest potential.

Fifth: Take all the time you need, but no more than necessary. After all, your horse and you only have a limited amount of training time on this earth, so get busy and have fun!

The Horse’s Back – Key to Success

You may think the legs of the horse are the most important element of their soundness, but maybe it’s actually their back. Over the years I’ve retrained several nice horses who were trained by “good” riders and were absolutely pathetically low in their back. They looked like broodmares. Their ribs hung off their vertabrae and their back muscles were flat, not full and rounded. They had no muscle system in their core muscles that supported their back.

How do they get this way and how can a trainer/rider avoid it?

First, quit sitting on your butt! Every time you sit in the saddle at the posting trot you should be supporting yourself with your calves. The horse’s back is not your sofa, and you are not watching the Super Bowl and eating bon bons while you ride, so don’t look like it! Good grief, the amount of abuse a horse’s back takes from the rider’s butt is incredible! Especially since the posting trot is designed to lighten the rider so the horse can easily elevate the back and round the back.

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Third, when sitting, don’t push with the seat to go forward, it only makes the back go down. This brings me back to: “use the whip.” I don’t like spurs because they cause the rider to turn their toes unnaturally outward and that causes them to sit even more on their butt.

A light seat that is stable, is much better for the elevation of the back and gives you a much better ride in the show ring and anytime. Be brave, get some wind in your hair (that is the part that is outside your helm